944.com
June 6, 2011
Written by Dee Anna David
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Great Adventures: Riviera Nayarit is Life, Experienced

"Last August, the bridge you crossed on the way here from the airport collapsed in the middle of the night," Adriana, one of my guides on this trip informs me during brunch on the patio beautiful waterfall-adorned patio of La Casona on a beautiful March day in Riviera Nayarit, Mexico. After that happened, there were only smaller bridges for people to get back and forth between Puerto Vallarta and Jalisco, resulting in what is typically a 20 minute commute to be hours for residents who work and live between the two including Adriana. "You had to take the other bridge or a water taxi." The following day, the Mexican government vowed to restore the bridge within six months and kept that promise. Today, a new bridge stands as the main connection between popular tourist destination, Puerto Vallarta, and Riviera Nayarit, a decidedly quieter getaway now, once again, only a 20 minute commute from Puerta Vallarta International Airport.

The bustling town of Puerta Vallarta is a well-known spot for American tourists. From retirees to spring breakers, the lively beach town boasts dozes of hotels in every range walking distance from El Centro, a strip of shopping and nightlife that comes alive after dusk, especially during those fabled weeks in March. But across the bridge, a twenty-minute drive, yet an entire Mexican state away, Riviera Nayarit is a decidedly quieter getaway lined with brand new modern resort hotels, a clean and less crowded stretch of beach, and is a short walk away from an abridged note of Mexican culture in the form of an art and shopping district far more genuine than anything found in that of its more populated neighbor. Friday night, as we watch the sun set to the east over the nearby mountains of Punta Mita, engaged in the most remarkable display of blue, purple and pink sky, there are no wild partygoers preparing their tequila shots or thumping music at the Villas Las Estancias. It's not a sleepy beach town, per se, but it is an untapped luxurious Mexican getaway that is as adventurous or as relaxing as you make it. I for one, opted for a bit of both.

Where to Stay
Driving into Nayarit, a long stretch takes you past a booming hotel zone featuring new and developing resorts, all massive in size, and each as impressive as the next. The architecture of many is modern and even reminiscent of newer developments in Miami Beach. At the end of the strip is Villas Las Estancias, a recently-completed condotel that, unlike several of the neighboring projects, sticks to its Mexican roots in its architecture boasting tall arches, fanciful tiling and bright colors with landscaping to match.

The property is as authentic as luxury Mexican accommodations get and having grown-up in Mexico part-time myself, walking into the magnificent entryway and greeted by the friendly staff, I immediately feel right a home, but better. Adriana tells me the property is about 50% homeowners and 50% hotel rentals which makes for a well-kept property and respectful visitors. Its adjacent sister property, The Flamingos is a hotel property that is a little less luxurious and a lot more lively, featuring daily activities schedules for guests that attracts those looking for a wild weekend much more. As for me, I am escorted through lush tropical landscape and past a beautiful and large pool area that also boasts three hot tubs, and upstairs to my room, a one bedroom, two bathroom suite complete with a kitchen, dining room, living room and best of all spacious patio overlooking the shore. The breeze is warm and constant in Riviera Nayarit I cannot wait to relax on this space with a glass of wine, but first, I am off to meet Chef Eugenio Villafana for dinner atop one of the property's penthouse suites.

Where to Eat
Chef Eugenio Villafana is the friendly and lively executive chef of the property's two restaurants, La Casona and the poolside cafe La Parrilla. His menus offer everything from gourmet Mexican fare to steak and seafood to a modern take on Mexican classics, but his passion is delicious, healthy eating and has recently been studying and developing a raw food menu which to my surprise was absolutely delicious. From a smoked oyster puree served on flaxseed to a soup of coconut, lemon grass and shrimp, every item served was unique and perfect. The following morning at a breakfast buffet at La Casona, I couldn't resist taking a sampling of Mexican favorites. The breakfast spread includes plenty of American staples of pastries and omelets, but I particular enjoyed Vallafana's take on some of my family favorites which included breakfast enchiladas, mole and chilequetas. Villafana tells me that despite his love of innovative fare he also must maintain a menu of American classics for less than adventurous tourists. Even as a lover of nearly any food genre, after sampling the filet he insists I try Saturday night, I cant argue with his grasp on such culinary items as well. From presentation to pairing, I can't generate one complaint about his menu. The sommelier manages my wine pairing each night perfectly but Sunday night, they will not let me leave without trying what they call Mexican Coffee: coffee, mocha, baileys and tequila, mixed, set on fire and presented with such fanfare that the adjacent table ordered one for themselves to watch it again.

What to Do
In a long weekend, one could easily stay put on the Villas property and never be bored. The pools and hot tubs face the light sands and ocean shore, while the on-site spa, Tatewari Spa offers a variety of luxury treatments, and access to all guests to such amenities as a whirlpool, cold plunge, steamrooms all designed in the basis of Mexican healing therapies.

There is a full tennis court on site with a professional on hand for lessons. For those seeking a little more adventure, there is plenty within reach. Just a five minute drive down the hotel zone is the meeting site for Vallarta Adventures. Visit the options and plan your day ahead as the group offers experiences ranging from an Ecoextreme tour complete with zip-line through the jungle, cultural music experiences and a variety of ocean adventures. Sunday morning, we are up early for the Marietas Eco Discovery tour which includes six hours of boating, snorkling, kayaking and even an option to scuba through Las Marietas, a collection of small islands set amid sparkling blue waters, about an hour cruise from the port at Puerta Vallarta. The water is cold but the sights are beautiful as we snorkel through caves and among a myriad of tropical life. Our guide is knowledgable and passionate as he leads us through the history and agriculture of the islands.

Later, those seeking more adventure join him on a speedboat to "la playa" nearby for relaxing on the small, deserted beach before heading back to the main boat for lunch, drinks and entertainment on the way back to the mainlands. By the time we dock at 3pm I am exhausted, the perfect time to check out Tatewari for a body scrub, massage and facial combo.

Come Monday morning I have but a few hours to check out the scene on my own and see just how much adventure one really could really get into in this town. I am told that a 15 minute stroll to the east will lead me to an art and shopping district more reminiscent of off-the-beaten-path Mexico that Im more used to. I head over to decide for myself. Bucerias is a charming town full of brightly painted buildings and pebbled roads that boasts a side of Mexican culture I never expected to find anywhere near Puerta Vallarta. While the Centro in Vallarta is chocked full of kitschy tourist souvenirs hardly different from one booth to the next, I was pleasantly surprised by the authenticity of embroidered clothing, hand-knit scarves, home decor and Mexican art found on the small strip.